L $4.50-$10 per lb. Mama's 1901 N. Ft. Myer Dr., Arlington. Parking lots. Open daily. No wonder Germaine's has become a Washington landmark. The Hunan lamb and beef offer a brilliant interplay of pepper, vinegar and soy with a touch of sweetness that is uniquely Hunanese. And it contains less familiar items you should try, like stuffed cornmeal cakes called pupusas. The menu is small, with California contemporary touches on its Italian base. 797-8704. German restaurants are scarce in Washington, and Alpenhof reminds you what fun they can be. Even the cheeseburger is tough and tasteless, under an embarrassing blanket of American cheese, and nice softshell crabs have been buried in heavy batter and drowned in brown gravy. Service is formal, attentive. AE, D, MC, V. No reservations. 965-2350. 544-6352. Parking in adjacent lot. Children's prices. Full bar service. AE, CB, MC, V. Reservations suggested. L, D $1.50-$12.50. L $3-$5.50, D $3.75-$11.50. 671-2774. Bacchus 1827 Jefferson Pl. Closed Mon. 321. Parking in rear. Alpenhof, though not flawless, is a unique Teutonic touch in downtown Washington. No credit cards. 276. L, D daily. And the crabmeat quiche is wll packed with crab, a grand ob when the reheating has been careful. And even more important, increasingly restaurants are serving seafood that is fresh rather than frozen, and cooking it properly. Among the appetizerss, the standards -- egg rolls, spare ribs and the like -- are dismal renditions, but the fried meat dumplings are outstanding and bon bon chicken is excellent. Children's prices. Sadly if you grew up in DC in the 80s, you may remember the fact that it wasn't really a safe city. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1985 DOCKSIDE BROILER Restaurant Menu - La Palma CA - Paper at the best online prices at eBay! Service is gregarious and hospitable. Gusti's 1837 M St. NW. Children's prices. Valet parking for dinner only. But Washington's French restaurants are famous for their inconsistency, and Jean-Pierre reaches excellence as often as any except perhaps the top three, and serves with as much suave expertise as any, bar none. The rest is slippery ground, for the vichyssoise tastes only of starch, the marinated seafood is an embarrassment of chewiness, the creamed spinach tastes like imitation canned, and the swordfish has been repeatedly overcooked. Imperial Garden Tysons Corner Shopping Center. L $4.75-$8.25, D $9.25-$15.50. Harvey's also serves excellent drinks, and has a wine list both extensive and educational, heavily weighed towards California, though the cellar does not live up to the list. And diners are ordering more lightly. Fish is poached in parchment, but so is chicken, to a unique succulence that turns it into perhaps the best dish on the menu. AE, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. Tabard Inn continues as a compliment to contemporary American cooking. ft. apartment is a 1 bed, 1.0 bath unit. Mc, v. Reservations suggested. giorgios 1247 20th St. NW. L $3.75-$4.95, 5 $5.85-$9.50. Main courses, too, are good, particularly the liver with sage or any veal dish. No-smoking section. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. French restaurants in the middle range -- those with good food that make no attempt at grand cuisine and are modest in price -- are a shifting scene, one year satisfying and another year indiffent. Free parking in garage next door. L, D $3.50-$10.95. Children's prices. At least there is always a creditable cold smoked chicken garnished with fresh fruits if nothing else tempts you. Its prices are high, and it does not deign to be open on Saturday night. 6Open daily. Beer and wine only. Le Provencal 1234 20th St. NW. Les Champs The Watergate, 600 New Hampshire Ave. NW. Closed Sun. L $3.95-$5.95, D $6.95-$12.95. Closed Sun. Desserts are outstanding, none better than the chocolate mousse cheesecake in a nutty crust. MC, V. Reservations accepted. L daily ex Sat, D daily. It is a restaurant of character; its food is very good and, in the instance of a few dishes, unexcelled. Blaise Gherardi de Parata (1909-1978), a native of Corsica, had come to the United States in 1949 and opened Rive Gauche in 1956. Parking in rear. Linen HOTEL SCENE Washington DC AE1522. Parking lot. The fried mozzarella is superlative, light and crisp and oozing cheese. Chardas 523 South 23rd St., Arlington. No credit cards. Its window walls fill the scene with the four-season beauty of Rock Creek Park. I am trying to remember a restaurant my parents took me to on visits to (ta && ta.queueForLoad ? Parking lot. The California touch is evident -- and welcome -- in an antipasto pyramided with fine Italian ham and salami, sharp, aged provolone, plump anchovies and pungent little olives over a bed of crisp romaine, with cruets of oil and vinegar to dress it yourself. The population was shrinking, wealth flowed out to the suburbs, and you could buy a Northwest rowhouse for five figures. Viet Nam Bistro 1836 Wilson Blvd., Arlington. L $3.75-$5.75, D $5.25-$8.95. L $4.40-$8.20, D $7.40-$18. 528-4300. L $4.25-$11.50, D $5.95-$13.95. Open daily. Rive Gauche seems to be taking a deep breath and meeting the challenge again. On the side are sweet spiced rice, beige from its seasonings, and iceberg lettuce salad with a tangy lemon dressing, as well as ridged slabs of homemade bread. The menu runs the usual gamut of snails, pate, onion soup, coq au vin, veal francaise and steak au poive. L $2.50-$6.50, D $2.50 -$12. All this on a mound of butter-infused rice decorated with carrot-orange grains on to and accompanied by homemade flat loaves of light, yeasty bread. "Their clam chowder is amazing and the OEG Burger is great for lunch.". Open daily. Full bar service. Full bar service. L daily ex Sat, D daily. But the environment -- harried, slap-dash service and unkept surroundings -- has not been a strong point. Intrigue 824 New Hampshire Ave. NW. Le Vagabond 7315 Wisconsin Ave. NW. No reservations. Some have more vegetables, some fewer. Mama Ayesha's Calvert Cafe 1967 Calvert St. NW. Street parking. D $5.95-$8.75. Le Manouche, named after a gypsy cart, travels a road with a few potholes. L $1.95-$4.95, D $4.25-$8.95. NW. L $3.75-$9.75, D $6.50-$14.95. Children's prices. AE, MC, V. Reservations accepted. Taking its name as a guide, the tandoor oven is the unique and salient feature of this tasteful and bright, orange-accented Indian restaurant. Closed Sat, Sun. Royal Pagoda 11621 Beltsville Dr., Beltsville. Parking lot. Open daily. Greek Village 1712 Connecticut Ave. NW. 436 11th St NW Harrington Hotel. Open daily. Mamma Desta 4840 Georgia Ave. NW. L $3.35-$6.25, D $4.95-$10.75. Children's meals. L $3.95-$5.25, D $5.50-$11.95. L $3.95-$4.50, D $4.25-$8.95. L daily ex Sat, D daily. Children's prices. L daily ex Sat, D daily. The ingredients at 219 are excellent -- big lumps of crabmeat, fresh fish -- but the kitchen is just competent rather than talented, so that overseasoning or overthickening are common. It is simple and English, as handsome as Basil Rathbone and of similar vintage. Fuji 3299 M St. NW. Children's prices. It is several restaurants scattered from Columbia to Tysons Corner; it is a Washington institution and live museum of American pub culture; it is Georgetown's longest running mixer. The pizza -- white or red -- is crusty, chewy, as good as any south of Baltimore. Parking in Colonial garage at dinner only. This highly personable and vaguely unkempt French restaurant is back to its old level of inconsistency, with bouillabaisse of exceptional flavor but with dry and mushy seafoods, choucroute well balanced in flavor but its meats ariid and chewy. Blackie's House of Beef 1217 22nd St. NW. To your right is a bar bathed in a golden glow of blond wood and hanging glasswar. 568-3400. 4200 Wisconsin Ave. NW. And most of the oven cooking or simmering -- stuffed vegetables, baked kibbe, wet couscous -- is overcooked and no better than average. 340-8596. Children's prices. Ae, cb, d, MC, V. Reservations suggested. Full bar service. With most of the main dishes under $4 and a jug of that intriguing honey wine $1, Mamma Desta's is a unique bargain. Candelas 3280 M St. NW. Open daily. The waiters toss the food at you. Swensen's 1990 K St. NW. Full bar service. Frederick, Md. 949-4140. Open daily. Beer and wine only. Ae, cb, d, mc, v. Reservations suggested. and car dealers will solely become service centers. Service swings wildly from a great show of pulling out your chair to surly response to requests. 301/662-447. Children's prices. Start dinner with a champagne and framboise cocktail and end by taking home a quiche or plum tart for tomorrow when you wish you were back at Chez Francois. Full bar service. Unused Pre-1980 CARSON'S RESTAURANT Largo Florida FL M8853. And it serves French haute cuisine that is at least correct if not always exciting. The dining room is small, the booths just large enough for four slim diners, the decorations limited to a few carnations, some cardboard cartons and a refrigerator with a few stray bottles of wine and beer. L,D$2.95-$8.95. L daily ex Sat, D daily. L $2.25-$3.95, D $4.25-$7.95. The Old Ebbitt Grill 1427 F St. NW. O'Brien's Pit Barbecue 1314 E Gude Dr., Rockville. Open daily. Full bar service. In the 1970s the restaurant industry and the custom of eating in restaurants grew rapidly. Open daily. Axum 2307 18th St. NW. Closed Mon. The first of Washington's Ethiopian restaurants, it has not yet been topped, but has gone on improving itself. 597-8447. The good news is that Bacchus now serves Lebanese food at lunch as well as dinner. L daily ex Sat, D daily ex Sun. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. The empanadas are also excellent. No reservations.Street parking. 659-5882. 547-8500. House of Hunan is an uncommon Fhinese restaurant, uncommonly good, uncommonly elegant, with an array of dishes and special touches found nowhere else in Washington. The food, too, remains authentic and straightforward, with a few especially good dishes. One good test of a Chinese restaurant is its hot-and-sour soup; Hunan passes with honors. Open daily. Free parking in adjacent lot after 5:30 p.m. Beer and wine only. L,D $.85-$2.50. Much attention on the menu and in the dining room is paid to pastries and creme brulee, which are very good, though less remarkable than in the restaurant's early days. Full bar service. Part of the magic may be having to reserve two weeks to the day in advance, the reconfirming the day before and the long drive down a winding wooded road, but there is no doubt that L'Auberge Chez Francois is a special place when you get there. L $4.95-$6.75, D $8.25- $13.50. L $3.25-$4.95, D $3.25-$5.95. No credit cards. L,D $5.75-$7.25. 6201 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. Saigon Inn 6922-A Braddock Rd., Annandale. 333-2565. MC, V. Reservations accepted. Ae, cb, d, MC, V. Reservations suggested. L $4.25-$10, D $10.50-$18.50. Tiki Bars. AE, MC, V. Reservations accepted, only for eight or more at lunch. No credit cards. Full bar service. 460-3500. Full bar service. Street parking. District of . Seriously, how do monument tickets disappear instantly? Jean-Louis alone has settled Washington more firmly in the list of cities for serious eating, even drawing respectful attention from the culinary Olympus -- France. China Gourmet 9444 Arlington Blvd., Fairfax. L daily ex Sat, D daily. 657-8775. 337-0730. Goldon Booeymonger 1701 20th St. NW. Commercial parking lots on street parking. D daily. No credit cards. Street parking and nearby lot. L $4.75-$18, D $5.75-$18. Parking in rear for M St., street parking for Columbia rd. Rosy walls and violin music, caviar with bliny and vodka with strawberries -- such are the touches that set the Serbian Crown apart from the crowd of Washington's elegant restaurants. Hidden below the bustling cormer of 17th and K Streets NW is a bustling bar where it's easy to relax and forget the over-head traffic jams. E, Hyattsville. Full bar service. Last year the Maison Blanche opened across from the Executive Office Building, with a sea of flowered carpeting covering its expensive ground. Like a small museum of Japanese arts, Samurai Sushiko covers its menus in luscious silks and its bench cushions in stunning geometric fabrics. Children's prices. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. The 1,000 sq. Barring my encounters with indifferent appetizers and luncheon specials that were steamtable mush, the food is fine. 338-1896. Parking lots across the street and street parking. New York City. Restaurants. North America. L, D $2.25-$5.95. No-smoking section. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations required. Yaldizlar 2605 24th St., NW. mChildren's prices. Parking lots. La Ruche maintains a good collection of light dishes.And if the daily specials are sometimes not very special, you can usually count on fresh vegetables to enhance them, and further do so with a bottle of reasonably priced wine. Old Angler's has its standards, but they need to be applied to the kitchen. L, D daily. L, D daily. Though they lose something in translation, the restaurant serves pretty good food in lush surroundings and serves it graciously. No credit cards. L, D $2.25-$8.50. Open daily. Full bar service. 659-0055. West African restaurants have come and gone in Washington, but Baobab seems here to stay. Two dining rooms have been vividly redecorated in Easter bunny colors of purple, blue and pink, and the menu has been revamped to focus on a front page of house specialties which (unlike some of the inept dishes the menu) are quite grand. Valet parking after 6:30 p.m. Full bar service. Evans Farm Inn 1696 Chain Bridge Rd. Unforgettable is the crisp walnut delight, the large halved nuts fried in a thin, faintly sweet glaze. 452-1915. Full bar service. But between the commissary kitchen that serves the cafes and the plate there is many a slip, with skimpy meat in the sandwiches, drying out of the quiches, chili sinking soggily into the French roll of the chili dog. Full bar service. 737-2101. Although the list of hors d'oeuvres is tempting, particularly the caviars with or without bliny, main dishes are more satisfactory, notably fish wrapped in pastry -- pate de sole Vladimir for one person, or kulebiaka for two people. D $11.75-$18.75. But it is a restaurant where they smile a lot while they blunder. 966-2172. L, D daily. Pork bows are too sweet, turnip cakes too bland, but the endings -- coconut-stuffed sesame puffs or deep-fried ice cream with rum and chocolate sauce -- recoup any losses. Full bar service. 256-1111. Then, there are dishes like the duck, stringy and gravy-sodden, yet the highest priced on the menu. ATTENTION 325544693449 Closed Sun. Le Pavillon 1820 K St. NW. All this, and the prices are low, servings large and menu extensive. Full bar service. How do I get to DC from the airport (BWI, DCA, IAD)? AE, V. Reservations accepted for four or more only. Full bar service. Photographer Michael Horsley documented the era with a fascinating series of 537 photos. Free dinner parking in hotel garage. Aux Beaux Champs 2800 Pennsylvania Ave. NW.

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